Luton’s Rich Heritage

The annual Luton Lunch is always one of the highlights of the Feltmakers’ calendar, and this year’s gathering at Putteridge Bury Hall certainly didn’t disappoint. The stately Neo-Elizabethan hall provided a stunning backdrop and bathed in glorious sunshine beneath clear blue skies, we began the afternoon with drinks on the terrace overlooking the beautiful grounds. It was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with familiar friends and fellow Liverymen, whilst also welcoming new faces and guests.

Lunch was an elegantly presented three-course affair, featuring pressed chicken and ham hock terrine followed by lamb with fondant potato. The vegetarian menu offered a fresh tomato, watermelon and bocconcini salad, followed by a butternut squash, lentil and spinach Wellington. The meal concluded with a decadent chocolate fondant served with white chocolate ice cream.  Naturally, excellent wine and conversation accompanied the meal.

Following lunch, our Third Warden, John Horn of Baxter, Hart & Abraham Ltd, gave an engaging presentation on the manufacture of felt.

The roots of John’s family firm trace back to 1823, when his great-grandfather, Henry Horn, established himself as a merchant supplying straw-plait to hat-makers. From these historic beginnings, the company has evolved over the centuries into a global supplier of high-quality felt, sinamay, straw, and other specialist materials for the millinery trade. Through its affiliated dye works, Barford Brothers, it also provides expert dyeing and finishing services.

John’s presentation guided us through every stage of the felt-making process, from raw wool to the finished cones and capeline bodies. He explained how these materials are then transformed by milliners and hat-makers into finished hats, using traditional hand-blocking techniques over wooden or heated aluminium hat blocks. Featuring raw materials, historical film, and photographs, the presentation brought the process to life, showcasing the impressive machinery involved and, most importantly, the remarkable skill of the workforce behind it.

Sadly, the company ceased manufacturing felt in the 1980s, as production in the UK was no longer commercially viable in the face of lower-cost competition from overseas, particularly from China and the United States. Nevertheless, the company continued to innovate during this decade by pioneering the commercial dyeing and stiffening of sinamay, a natural straw fabric now widely used in millinery. This process relied on creating bespoke machinery that remains in active operation today.

The presentation offered a fascinating insight into a family business now in its sixth generation, with John, his brother Richard, and nephew Nick continuing a proud tradition of craftsmanship and expertise spanning more than 200 years. It was a pleasure to have the three generations of the Horn family join us for lunch together.

As always, the afternoon passed far too quickly. With appetites satisfied, glasses raised, and conversations flowing, the lunch concluded with words of thanks from the Master, Simon Millar. His closing remarks were a timely reminder of why occasions such as this matter, celebrating the fact that Luton has such a rich connection with the hat trade.

Once recognised as the centre of the British hat industry, the town remains home to specialist block makers, hat manufacturers, and millinery suppliers whose skills continue to support the trade today. Holding our annual lunch here is a powerful reminder of the importance of maintaining that connection with our heritage, supporting the businesses and craftspeople who keep these traditional skills alive.

If you have not yet attended the Luton Lunch, I can thoroughly recommend it. Our sincere thanks go to Alistair Hay for organising another excellent event, to John Horn for his fascinating presentation on the manufacture of felt and to Christine Horn for her beautiful floral table arrangements, which incorporated strip straw loops and wheat sheaves as a delightful nod to Luton’s straw-plaiting and hat-making heritage. Finally, we thank the staff at Putteridge Bury for their warm hospitality and impeccable service.

FLEUR CURTIS